Restaurant Review: Bar Tartine (San Francisco, CA)


Bar Tartine is the sister restaurant of Tartine Bakery, located on Valencia in the Mission, San Francisco.  The restaurant features a modern American menu using locally sourced ingredients and the famous Tartine bread.

The fresh-baked bread from Tartine Bakery is really exceptional and a highlight.  The bread has a firm, crackling crust, and soft, slightly sour and complex interior.

The Smoked Potatoes, roasted and alderwood smoked small potatoes with black garlic vinaigrette and ramp aioli, is one of the best dishes I have had in the Bay Area.  The smokiness, crisp texture from roasting, cream from the aioli, and acidity from the vinaigrette are really a winning combination.  I used up the rest of the bread to sop up all of the sauce.

The rest of the menu is very adventurous and original, mostly focused on fresh, seasonal vegetables.  I liked the Farmer’s Cheese dumpling, served in a delicious mushroom broth.  The desserts are unique as well, on the border of sweet and savory.  Definitely recommended.

Link to my post on making Tartine Bread here.  Amazon link to Tartine Bread cookbook here.

Link to Bar Tartine website here.

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“The 21st Century Pastry Chef” SF Panel


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Belinda Leong of b.patisserie, John Birdsall of Chow, Matt Tinder of Coi and the Daniel Patterson Group, Michelle Polzine of 20th Century Café, Nicole Plue of SF Cooking School, and William Werner of Craftsman and Wolves

The San Francisco Cooking School hosted a panel discussion on “The 21st Century Pastry Chef” with several leading Bay Area pastry chefs on August 8, 2013.  The panel was moderated by John Birdsall, senior editor of Chow, and featured Lincoln Carson of the Mina Group, Bill Corbett of the Absinthe Group, Belinda Leong of b.patisserie, Matt Tinder of Coi and the Daniel Patterson Group, Michelle Polzine of 20th Century Café, Nicole Plue of SF Cooking School, and William Werner of Craftsman and Wolves.  All of them are accomplished chefs with great pedigrees, experience, and recognition, working in different segments of the food industry, from Carson over-seeing the pastry program at the 20-restaurant Mina Group, to Werner, Polzine, and Leong with their own recently opened stand-alone pastry shops.

First things first: SF pastry chefs’ thoughts on the massively hyped “cronut” phenomenon in New York.  For those who have not heard of the cronut, it is a pastry created by Dominique Ansel, a very well-respected NYC pastry chef, that consists of a croissant dough shaped into a donut, deep-fried and filled with pastry cream and topped with frosting.  Sounds delicious.  People are lining up for hours before the shop opens, or apparently paying homeless people to stand in line for them, in order to snag one, in part due to coverage not only in food media, but also national media attention as well.  Most of the SF pastry chefs were very congratulatory of Ansel in being able to capture and take advantage of a moment with his creation, which Matt Tinder appreciated as a demonstration of Ansel’s skill with laminated dough.  The three owners of their own shops reported that their customers have asked if they will make a cronut, but none of them have plans to make one.  And despite the hype, Werner felt that any focus on pastry in the national media is good for everyone.

The big question of the night was whether or not pastry chefs were an endangered species.  A lot of the responses had to do with the economics of the restaurant industry.  The pastries and desserts do not bring in as much revenue as the savory side (and may actually lose money), so it’s hard to justify a separate pastry chef (even though that chef might be making “only” $40-45K).  Most customers are coming for the savory side and the chef of the restaurant, and not the desserts.  That said, for fine dining establishments, a pastry program is still essential as part of the complete restaurant experience.  And most of the chefs talked about their passion for cooking as why they are there.

There was also discussion on the  generalization that the west coast is more “produce”-driven, eg David Chang’s infamous “figs on a plate” comment, and east coast is more technique-driven.  Tinder made the point that it he thought it was actually much harder to work with seasonally available fruits and vegetables, as opposed to an ingredient such as, say, chocolate, because of the variability in product quality (need to use refractometers to measure sugar content) and uncertainty over whether something promised from a farm would actually be delivered.

Other notes:

– SF pastry may have in the past best been known for Tartine Bakery’s rustic style, but places like b.patisserie (classic French), Craftsman and Wolves (modern French), and 20th Century (Austro-Hungarian) are moving forward with their own unique styles.

– Favorite under-appreciated ingredient? Corbett, vegetables; Polzine, honey; Werner, macha; Plue, whole wheat flour; Leong, almond flour.  Best response was from Tinder: “plain” yogurt and “plain” ice cream, ie executing a perfect example of a single product in both taste and texture can be a surprise.

– Qualities that the chefs look for in someone who is interested in staging in their kitchens: commitment, respect for the chef’s kitchen and the years they have put in to perfect a recipe, willingness to listen and to own mistakes.

– New cooking school grads want their own shop right away and don’t understand that it takes years to learn the craft and be great and don’t appreciate or even know about pastry chefs who have come before them.  Kids these days!

Overall, it was an informative, thoughtful program from some amazing pastry chefs providing perspective from a range of different backgrounds.  Prior to the discussion there was a dessert bar with absolutely delicious Feve artisan chocolates and pies from PieTisserie in Oakland.

The new San Francisco Cooking School on Van Ness just north of Civic Center recently opened in a beautiful space and is offering various culinary and pastry arts certificate programs as well as single session cooking classes.

Bakery Review: Craftsman and Wolves (San Francisco, CA)


There are so many great bakeries in the Bay Area like Tartine, Bouchon, and Sandbox, and Craftsman and Wolves is my new favorite.  C & W opened last year, and what I like about it is that almost everything has a modern twist.  They are famous for the “Rebel Within” a sausage and scallion muffin with a soft-boiled egg in the middle, the yolk oozing out as you cut into it.  How did they do that?  There are bold flavors, like a Thai scone with coconut, dried mango, ginger, and green curry, or a peppery smoked cheddar gougere.  There is a decadent “Devil” chocolate cake, with chocolate ganache and bitter chocolate toffee, and a refined and delicate chocolate caramel eclair. The brownie had a layer of delicious, gooey salted caramel.  The blueberry muffin was moist with a hint of lemon. The croissants are on point, filled with proscuitto, tomato jam, and other rotating flavors.  Oatmeal raisin and chocolate chip cookies are done well, especially the valrhona chocolate chip cookie, where it appeared like there was a sheet of chocolate that ran through the middle of the cookie.  They also have a great hot chocolate.  The Banana cube cake is maybe one of the best pastries I have ever eaten.  Basically everything has been truly well crafted and delicious, and I look forward to trying other items on the menu, such as their sandwiches, cakes, and breads.

C & W is located on a very trendy block of Valencia between 18th and 19th in the Mission, right next to the Dandelion Chocolate factory, a small batch artisan chocolate shop, and Mission Cheese, a cheese tasting bar.

Link to Craftsman and Wolves here.  There is a great video of Chef William Werner putting together one of his precise cube cakes here.

Craftsman & Wolves on Urbanspoon
 

Off the Grid: Picnic at the Presidio


Picnic at the Presidio

Picnic at the Presidio

The Presidio lawn near the Golden Gate Bridge is a great setting for an Off the Grid food truck event every Sunday from 11-4 from April until late October.  There were about 18 food truck vendors and similar number of farmer’s market stands.  There is a beautiful lawn in the Presidio that makes for a very laid-back, fun, family- and pet-friendly atmosphere.  Sports Basement had hoops, balls, and frisbees for loan for free with deposit of a driver’s license.  Definitely a different, more open feeling than Friday nights at Fort Mason or StrEAT food park.  With so much competition in the food truck realm, the vendors are stepping up their game in terms of food offerings.  I am a big fan of The Whole Beast, ever since trying their Lamb Poutine at the Eat Real Fest in Oakland in 2012.  They offered some succulent, smoky ribs on top of Japanese noodles that were quite delicious.  The lemon and ricotta doughnuts tossed with fresh lemon zest and powdered sugar at Streatery were also outstanding and a relative bargain at $3 for 5 or 6.  Other creative offerings from Streatery included their pea crepe salad.  Tataki had a special of 4 items for $15 – the hand rolls and croquettes were good.  Definitely worth checking out for a nice Sunday picnic.

Link to Picnic at the Presidio here.

Restaurant Review: Namu Gaji


Namu Gaji is a “New Korean” restaurant opened in 2012 by three brothers in a prime location in the Mission on the corner of 18th and Dolores in San Francisco. On the menu are Korean as well as Japanese-inspired dishes made from locally sourced ingredients, including from the owners’ local farm.  Small plates and larger plates are served family style.

Ramyun – homemade ramen noodles, 4505 Meats hot dog slices, kimchee, bean sprouts, and a panko-crusted soft egg in a delicious, hearty, spicy red broth.  My favorite dish on the menu.  There are 24 orders available per night.

Korean Fried Chicken (kfc on the menu)- super crunchy fried chicken coated in a sticky sweet, spicy red pepper sauce, served with a dashi gravy and tart pickled daikon and a cabbage slaw.  The flavor of the chicken coating was delicious, and the daikon was a great side to go with the chicken.  1/2 chicken for $35

Stone Pot – Namu Gaji’s take on bibimbap with rice crisped in the stone pot serving vessel, various vegetables, a fried egg, optional steak, and gochujang (a sweet, spicy red pepper sauce).  This was good, but not particularly special.  $16 (+ $5 for steak), so definitely pricy for bibimbap.

Two appetizers were excellent:

Dumpling – shiitake mushroom dumplings in a flavorful, earthy broth.

Octopus – tender chunks of octopus, pumpkin, in a spicy gochujang sauce.

One dish on the menu I wanted to try was the Bo Ssam – pork shoulder with oysters and other accompaniements.  It is $100 and serves 5 – 8 people, and there are two available per night.

Dessert – there were rotating flavors of shaved ice available.  I had the yuzu shaved ice, with candied kumquats and graham cracker crumble.  It was delicious and refreshing after a heavy meal, but one of my dinner companions said something to the effect of, only in San Francisco is a bowl of ice $8.

I can’t help but compare the menu to Momofuku in New York, which also sells Korean Fried Chicken, Bo Ssam, and, of course, ramen.  There is definitely a similar philosophy of using Korean and other Asian dishes as a starting point for more modern or innovative versions, but the owners of Namu Gaji have their own unique vision.

Service is very friendly.  They were very busy on both Sunday and Tuesday nights.  Reservations can be made online through UrbanSpoon.  The restaurant space is warm and inviting.  There is an open kitchen, a long communal table, and scattered small tables and seating along the window and kitchen.  The seats were backless stools, which were a little uncomfortable, but probably necessary given the small footprint of the restaurant.  Definitely recommended.

Link to Namu Gaji restaurant website here.

 

Cookbook Review: Tartine Bread


DSC07557Tartine Bakery in San Francisco is well-known for their rustic country bread as well as cakes, morning buns, and other baked goods.  Chef Emily Pruett released the Tartine Bakery cookbook, which has great recipes for brown butter shortbread lemon bars,  croissants, and tea cakes.  Chef Chad Robertson released the Tartine Bread cookbook two years ago, and it had been sitting on my shelf because the recipe for bread, at 37 pages, was quite intimidating.  But actually most of these pages are filled with step-by-step photos and explanations and adjustments of a bread recipe that, as I finally found out recently, is not that much more difficult than Jim Lahey’s super-easy No-Knead Bread recipe.

Unlike No-Knead Bread, Robertson’s recipe requires a yeast starter.  This can be started at home from wild yeast present in your kitchen, in a method explained in the book.  Or one can obtain starter from a local bakery.  I went to the Oakland Eat Real Festival earlier this year and obtained a starter from Sour Flour and have been feeding it in anticipation of finally using it to bake bread.  The starter should be fed every day, but it is pretty forgiving.  For example, it can be fed less often if stored in the refrigerator.  On the night before bread baking, a leaven made with starter, flour, and water is set up to aerate overnight.  The leaven is then mixed with additional flour and water, followed by a rest period of 25 to 40 minutes, and then a bulk fermentation of 3 to 4 hours.  During the bulk fermentation, the dough is turned every half hour.  The dough is then shaped into a round and then undergoes a bench rest for 20 to 30 minutes.  The dough then undergoes a final shaping and rise for 3 to 4 hours.  I had difficulty scoring the bread, so I used Ken Forkish’s method where he puts the bread in the baking vessel seam side up (this will make sense once you bake the bread).  Like with No-Knead Bread, the bread is baked in a Dutch oven to trap steam from the dough itself during the initial twenty minutes of baking.  The last twenty minutes of baking is performed with the lid removed, allowing for the development of a crackling crust.  This is a full-day project, but most of the time is non-active time.  The Tartine Bread recipe produces outstanding bread.  The bread emerges from the oven and fills the kitchen with a delicious aroma and the crackling sounds of the “music of bread.”  There is a crunchy crust and spongy, flavorful interior that makes the day well worthwhile.

The book has variations on the bread recipes, such as olive bread, and also recipes for baguettes, pizza dough, and brioche.  And there is a great section of recipes for using the bread in salads, soups, and sandwiches.  I tried the meatball sandwich recipe, with a very garlicky pesto, pillowy soft meatballs, a simple tomato sauce (add some salt to taste) and provolone that combined for a great Italian sandwich.

My favorite recipe from the book is the French Toast, the most amazing recipe for French Toast I have ever tried.  A thick slice of country bread is soaked in a custard of eggs, milk, vanilla, sugar, salt, and lemon peel.  The lemon peel I think is really the key flavor note that elevates this recipe.  The bread is cooked on a skillet until the bottom forms a seal.  Then more custard is added and the entire skillet is transferred to the oven for the additional custard to set.  The result is a beautifully caramelized crust and soft, delicious custard.  There is also an recipe for Maple-Glazed Bacon – I didn’t realize how easy it was – just cook some bacon, then coat with maple syrup and bake along with the French Toast.  Highly recommended.

Link to Tartine French Toast recipe here.

Link to Tartine Bread cookbook here.

San Francisco Food Trucks: Off the Grid and StrEAT Food Park


I first became aware of the burgeoning food truck movement from a New York Times article in 2009 about Roy Choi’s Kogi BBQ Korean taco truck in Los Angeles, CA that was causing a sensation with its fusion of Korean barbecue and Mexican tacos.  I had to go down to LA that summer and check it out.  I found the location of the truck, in an industrial park south of LA, on their website.  There was an hour-long line and a news crew filming the scene.  They had Korean barbecue (pork, chicken, kalbi) tacos and sliders that were delicious.

 

It seemed shortly thereafter that the food truck movement in the Bay Area really exploded.  In 2010 the Off the Grid group began organizing a food truck event on Friday nights at Fort Mason in San Francisco, where around 30 trucks gather from 5-10 pm.  It’s great fun to be able to try so many different trucks.

Off the Grid now holds a host of other gatherings in San Francisco and other locations in the Bay Area during other days of the week.  The downside of Fort Mason is that the lines are often long, it gets cold on Friday nights in the City, and there are not that many dedicated facilities (tables, bathrooms).  In 2012 the new StrEAT Food Park opened in the SoMa (South of Market) neighborhood, on 11th street near US101.  It’s loosely modeled after the food truck “pods” found in Portland, OR.  There are clean bathrooms, indoor and outdoor seating areas, sometimes a bartender, and up to ten trucks for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Another place to find food trucks is at various Farmer’s Markets in the Bay Area.  The Ferry Terminal Farmer’s Market on Saturday has the Roli Roti truck, which has chickens roasting on rotisserie grills with their juices dripping onto roast potatoes below.  Roli Roti also serves one of my favorite food truck items, the porchetta sandwich.  They take pork loin, herbs, and spices and roll it in pork belly and roast it on the rotisserie.  Slices of juicy meat and crackling skin are served with sweet onion marmalade, greens, and a crusty roll. Roli Roti also comes to other Farmer’s Markets and locations, but they only sell porchetta at the Ferry Terminal, unfortunately.

I am a big fan of all of the new food trucks.  It’s a great way for aspiring chefs and entrepeneurs to start their own food businesses.  Some, like Mission Street Food, have parlayed their success into actual restaurants.  The trucks take advantage of social media, announcing their locations on Twitter and Facebook.  They have been featured nationally on Food Network’s The Great Food Truck Race.  There is a great variety of food being served: Indian, barbecue, seafood, creme brulee, cookies, Belgian waffles, Japanese, French.  Sometimes, the food from the food trucks can be a bit overwhelming.  A couple of examples: waffle fries drowned in chicken tikka masala and melted cheese; a sandwich of panko-crusted fried chicken, pulled pork, cheese, bacon, a fried egg, and slaw on a brioche bun.  Not subtle, but it doesn’t have to be.  There’s so much variety out there now that there is something for everyone.

Update May 2013: Just went to the Picnic at the Presidio food truck event sponsored by Off the Grid.  I think it’s a really great setting.  Link here.

Restaurant Review: State Bird Provisions


State Bird Provisions is a new restaurant in San Francisco with a really unique concept where creative small plates are served dim sum style from a cart or on trays carried around by the waitstaff.  When the server comes around with the seafood cart, it it extremely tempting to pick four or five different plates, because everything looks so good, and the taste does not disappoint.  Most of the plates are enough for two people to have a few generous bites and are priced from $5-9. The passed plates change every night and even change during the course of the evening, with approximately 10-12 being served on a given night.  There are French, Korean, and Eastern European influences, which might seem quite disparate but none of the dishes seem out of place and instead provide a nice variety of choices.  Highlights included duck liver mousse with sweet almond cakes smoked duck breast with potatoes and pickled onions, clams with pork belly and kimchi stew, a broccoli and rye-stuffed pierogi with pickled bull’s blood micro greens and sour cream, whipped avocado with scallops and mussels, and yellowtail tartare with quinoa.

In addition there is a menu with “commandables” that can be ordered, including the fried quail with “provisions” – lemony onions and parmesan, a very fresh red trout with crispy rice battered skin, topped with mandarin oranges, macadamia nuts, and brown butter, and interesting savory pancakes, such as one served with guanciale, ramps, and candy cap powder.

The desserts were excellent.  A shot of peanut-infused milk with muscovado syrup was delicious.  A chocolate ice cream sandwich with hints of cardamom and cherries.  Strawberry granita served on top of tapioca with macerated strawberries and almonds.

State Bird Provisions was opened by a husband and wife team earlier this year on Fillmore Street in San Francisco, CA.  The quirky name references the state bird of California, the quail.  The storefront is dominated by an open kitchen.  There is a counter at the kitchen where one can stand and dine, picking plates as they are prepared in the kitchen, while tables are in the back.  Service was efficient but sometimes a bit terse.  I think they are pretty busy.  Overall, however, I really liked this place.  The concept is truly original making for a fun experience with really inventive and delicious food.  Highly recommended.

Link to restaurant website here.

Update August 2012: Bon Appetit magazine just named State Bird best new restaurant in America in 2012!  And they published several recipes, including the delicious Rice Seared Trout with Hazelnut Brown Butter and Peanut Muscavado Milk.  Link to article and recipes here.

Restaurant Review: Commonwealth


Commonwealth has been on my must-try list for a while, and I finally had the pleasure of dining there recently.  Commonwealth is located in the Mission District of San Francisco and is an offshoot of Mission Street Food headed by chef Jason Fox.  It continues the Mission Street Food tradition of innovative food paired with a charity mission.  There are seats at the bar overlooking the open kitchen where I got to observe the chefs in action as they prepared a six course tasting menu that sounded very adventurous.  There were all sorts of fun culinary techniques on display: immersion circulators, microwave sponge cake, nitrous foams, liquid nitrogen.

The meal started off with complimentary house-made potato chips, which were mildly flavored with nori and served as a great vehicle for the malt vinegar foam.  Next was an amuse bouche of raw fluke, popcorn, and coconut, a really nice bite.  The actual tasting menu then started with caviar served on waffle potato chips with potatoes, creme fraiche, scrambled egg foam, and fines herbs.  The presentation was beautiful and a new way to enjoy a classic combination of flavors.

The next dish, Foie Gras with Brioche Soldiers was my favorite.  The foie gras is rolled in an oat crust, and the texture of the oats provides contrast to the creamy, fatty foie gras.  Each little bite of a combination of the foie gras, crisped, buttery brioche, and rhubarb jam was perfect.  In between bites there was pickled rhubarb and ginger candy and the beautiful Hearts of Fire leaves.

The next course was a shaved carrot and radish salad with ash-coated goat cheese, quinoa, and herbs.  Beautiful presentation again.  The menu is very thoughtfully planned, as this course was a nice change of pace from the rich dish before.

Sweetbreads, which are calf thymus, a single prawn, fava beans, and pasta in a smoked ham jus was next.  I was a little apprehensive at first about eating the sweetbreads, but they had a very mild flavor.  The ham jus (broth) was really tasty.  They have a very liberal substitution policy with the tasting menu, so we were able to taste several dishes from the a la carte menu in addition to the ones on the tasting menu, including a sturgeon with pumpernickel crust and brussel sprouts, and lamb’s tongue with artichokes and meyer lemon sauce.

Next was a palate cleanser of blood orange sherbet and chantilly creme.  The attention to detail was quite impressive.  For example, liquid nitrogen was used to chill the glass serving dish for the sherbet course.  This was followed by dessert, a peanut butter semifreddo in a chocolate ganache, caramel sauce, and frozen “popcorn.”  We also had another substitution, bruleed banana and frozen chicory mousse.  The mousse was dipped and rolled in liquid nitrogen, making a hard shell.  When the shell was cracked open, the soft mousse inside was revealed.  This was a great dessert, with the slight bitterness of the chicory contrasting with the caramelized bananas.  Finally, some delicious truffles with intense coffee flavor were sent over with the bill.

The tasting menu price is $65, $10 of which goes to charity, which made me feel a little less guilty about spending so much on one meal.  That being said, the tasting menu is a good value considering the exceptional quality of the six courses served, especially compared to other restaurants in the Bay Area.  New dishes appear every week, and the tasting menu turns over quarterly.  There is an optional wine pairing for $30, where a generous pour of wine accompanies each course.  The provenance and composition of each wine is explained as well as the reason the wine was chosen for the pairing.  Also available is an a la carte menu where similar sized portion plates are available for $12-16.  The decor is clean, modern, and inviting, and the service is very friendly, knowledgeable, patient, and accommodating of special requests.  Highly recommended.

Link to restaurant website here.

Chinese Food, American-Chinese Food, and Mission Chinese Food


Chinese food, American-Chinese food, and Mission Chinese Food are three very, very different entities.  Chinese food as prepared in China, Hong Kong, or Taiwan is in my opinion superior to any Chinese food you will find in the U.S.  Each region has its own specialties and traditions developed over thousands of years: fishcake wrapped meatballs from Fuzhou, crispy duck from Beijing, stinky tofu from Taiwan.  At a Chinese banquet there is an endless procession of sophisticated flavors.

American-Chinese food is it’s own separate thing, Chinese food co-opted for an American palate.  But I like this kind of food also, especially from a take-out joint like Hon’s Wok in St. Louis, which serves breaded and deep-fried Sesame Chicken in a sticky, sweet red sauce with sesame seeds sprinkled on top, the combination of which will induce a carb- and MSG-laced coma.  However, ask for “Sesame Chicken” in a traditional Chinese restaurant and you will be met with blank stares.  These dishes are wholly made up in the U.S., and they are satisfying in their own way.

Mission Chinese Food has received a ton of local and national press, because of chef Danny Bowien’s creative re-interpretation of Chinese food, and because of its pedigree as an offshoot of the successful Mission Street Food project that was documented in the inspiring book by Anthony Myint and Karen Liebowitz.  I wanted to share my experience having had several meals at MCF over the past one and a half years, especially now with the news that Chef Danny Bowien is leaving for New York City.

The dishes at MCF are very forward-thinking and have a ton of bold flavors.  Different takes on a roasted and fried pork belly have been served, including one dish with rice noodles and ginger scallion, and another with pineapple and cucumber, perhaps the SF response to David Chang’s Momofuku Pork Belly Buns. MCF makes use of unusual ingredients for Chinese food, like pastrami and potatoes in their Kung Pao Pastrami dish.   There is a great rendition of a rice porridge with bits of beef, Dungeness crab, and slow-cooked egg.  The tea-smoked eel is a standout, with crunchy eel wrapped in rice noodles.  Another favorite is Thrice Cooked Bacon, with Rice Cakes, sweet chewy Tofu Skin, and Bitter Melon.  So much flavor!  They got a smoker and started veering way over into American BBQ, serving a white bread BBQ platter with Coca-cola BBQ sauce.   Since there are always new additions and subtractions to the menu, there are many other dishes I have unfortunately missed.  Some flavor profiles are not for everyone – for example, the cold savory egg custard with uni and trout roe.  Many of the dishes have heat from chili peppers and Szechuan peppercorns, which are really pungent.

There seems to be many hipsters and foodies who come to MCF, and thus MCF has introduced some Chinese ingredients, like Chinese sausage, rice noodles, and rice porridge, to a new audience.  Customers expecting more traditional Chinese food or American-Chinese Food will be challenged.  Still, I would much rather come here and try Chef Bowien’s latest creation than go to almost any other restaurant serving “rustic” Northern California cuisine for another iteration of beef short rib, pork chop, chicken breast, salmon, or vegetarian risotto.  Chinese food continues to evolve in the hands of creative chefs like Danny Bowien who are willing to experiment, and I am glad to be part of the audience.  Highly recommended.

Many Danny Bowien recipes have been published in Bon Appetit like Sizzling Cumin LambKung Pao Pastrami, and Mouthwatering Chicken.

The New York Times also published several recipes like Rice Porridge with Dungeness Crab, Chicken and Soft-Cooked Egg.

Link to coolcookstyle’s visit to Mission Chinese NYC here.


Mission Chinese Food on Urbanspoon

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