Recipe Review: Bon Appetit’s Ultimate Lobster Rolls

Ultimate Lobster Roll

Ultimate Lobster Roll

The June 2013 issue of Bon Appetit had a feature written by Michael Paterniti, entitled “Consider the Lobster Roll” and an accompanying recipe, “Bon Appetit’s Ultimate Lobster Roll.”  The title recalls David Foster Wallace’s piece in Gourmet, “Consider the Lobster,” an existential treatise, complete with multiple hilarious footnotes, on the ethics of eating lobster at a summer lobster festival in Maine.  This article contained a history of the lobster roll, all of the considerations – the bun, the dressing, the amount of meat, and a chronicle of the author’s assignment of tasting the many permutations of lobster roll served at seafood shacks up and down the coast of New England.  By the way, where can I sign up for that job?

OK, on to the review of “Bon Appetit’s Ultimate Lobster Rolls.”  I think it’s a great recipe that gets everything right.  The lobster meat is dressed in a light amount of mayonnaise and lemon, with celery for crunch and chives for color.  Bon Appetit knows that the bun is critical.  It has to be a New England style hot dog bun, where there is no crust on the side and can therefore be toasted crispy in butter.  If one can’t get the New England style buns, then cut the sides off of regular hot dog buns.

Cost: market price for lobster

Level of difficulty: One needs to steam, crack, and extract the meat from the lobster, and then the rest is easy

Time: about an hour

Deliciousness: delicious (4 of 5 stars)

Make again: yes

Link to recipe here.

Subscribe to Bon Appetit here.

6 thoughts on “Recipe Review: Bon Appetit’s Ultimate Lobster Rolls

  1. I need to read that article! I am super picky about my lobster rolls. First of all, there can’t be any fancy business. Even though it’s lobster, I always think of it as kind of “trashy” (in a very good way) food. No homemade mayo, no brioche roll, no strange seasonings apart from a little celery salt or Old Bay if you must. Chives only. Mayonnaise should be Hellman’s. I agree the bun should be a buttered New England-style hot dog bun. Barring that, a regular hot dog. White bread. Is that what the article says?

    I think I just outed myself as a food fascist 🙂

    • For some things, like lobster rolls, you just can’t compromise! For me it was about the first lobster roll I ever had, at Wood’s Seafood in Plymouth, MA. I think the taste just imprinted instantly and all other lobster rolls have to be prepared the same way or they don’t taste right. There are a lot of foods like that, where first impressions have the most impact.

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