Restaurant Review: LYFE Kitchen


LYFE (Love Your Food Everyday) Kitchen is a new restaurant in Palo Alto, CA and the first of what an ambitious, Chicago-based group hopes are many restaurants across the country as well as a line of prepared soups and meals being sold at Costco.  The executive chefs are Art Smith and Tal Ronnen, who used to cook for Oprah Winfrey.  They serve, breakfast, lunch, and dinner 7 days a week.

There are starters, soups, sides, sandwiches, flatbreads, salads, and main courses on the dinner and lunch menu.  Many have gluten-free or vegan options.  The peas and carrots risotto was really delicious – fresh, rich, and packed with vegetables and flavor with a reasonable serving size that ended up being quite filling.  The risotto is actually made from farro and steel cut oats which was really unique and quite good.  The napa cabbage salad featured broccolini, red cabbage, edamame, cranberries, cashes and sesame dressing and was crunchy and had lots of texture and flavor.  There were so many delicious-sounding salads on the menu, and one suggestion would be to offer a combination salad plate where one could pick any three.  There is meat on the menu, including hamburgers, unfried chicken, and some seafood dishes.  The grilled mahi fish tacos were fresh, but pretty standard. There were a couple of “coolers” on the menu: a pomegranate-cranberry, and pinapple-coconut lime, both of which were really refreshing, especially the pomegranate-cranberry.  Smoothies, juices, beer on tap, and wine are also available.

The best dessert was the lemon poundcake with Greek yogurt and fresh strawberries – very lemony and not too rich.  The volcano chocolate cake was moist with lots of chocolate.

The restaurant has a warm, modern design featuring an indoor herb garden.  There is outdoor seating and plenty of tables inside, and it was pretty packed on a Thursday night.  Calories and sodium content are posted prominently on the menus, and everything comes in under 600 calories.  This is not a full service restaurant.  Orders are taken and paid for at the register in front, and then a runner brings food out to the table.  Water and utensils are self-serve.  They could have done a better job clearing dishes from the table.

Disclaimer: the vice president of marketing saw me taking pictures for this blog and stopped by our table.  He explained that their philosophy was that it all starts with taste.  He also told us that Tim Cook, CEO of Apple, dines there weekly at the booth where we were sitting.  He sent us some complimentary corn chowder as well as three dessert to try.  The corn chowder was really good and was made with cashew cream instead of heavy cream, which really worked.  I did not miss the heavy cream.  Among the additional desserts that were sent, I think the carrot cake was off the menu.  It had good carrot flavor but was a little bit dry.  A coconut ice cream or cream cheese frosting would have gone well with the carrot cake.  The banana-rum cheesecake (non-dairy) had a strange texture and flavor, with a little too much rum.  The vegan chocolate chip cookie was good for a vegan cookie, but lacked the richness of a real chocolate chip cookie made with butter.

Overall, I really liked LYFE Kitchen and how they successfully delivered the concept of flavorful, fresh, fast food in an inviting setting.  Definitely recommended.

Restaurant Review: Mission Bowling Club


Mission Bowling Club is a new bowling alley/bar/restaurant on 17th and S. Van Ness in the Mission District, San Francisco.  The food is from Chef Anthony Myint of  Mission Street Food fame.  MBC is open every day from 3pm until 11pm or 12am, opening at 11am on weekends for brunch.  I went for brunch and sampled the fried chicken and waffles.  The fried chicken was excellent – crisp, flavorful, juicy with a good amount of heat.  The waffle served with maple butter was not as memorable.  The homemade biscuits and sausage gravy were served with home fries and were very good. My favorite dish was the Buttermilk Panna Cotta, Chamomile Crisp, and Spring Herbs, which was a pretty sophisticated dessert and really delicious.  I will have to go back after 3pm when they serve their regular menu that includes the Mission Burger, a $15 1/2 lb aged and granulated  patty which Chef Myint used to serve out of the meat counter of a Vietnamese grocery a couple of years ago.  The menu also includes a sausage corn dog and more complicated plates like a blackened salmon with potato latke, creme fraiche, salmon roe, cucumber, and horseradish. There is a nice outdoor seating area, bar area, and of course bowling lanes, all of which are nicely designed.  A fun place to eat and play in the Mission.

Link to Mission Bowling Club website here.

Recipe Review: Fish Fillets with Tomatoes, Squash, and Basil


Cooking in parchment paper helps to seal in steam and moisture and concentrate flavor.  There are several recipes from the June 2012 Bon Appetit magazine that highlight this technique.  In this fish recipe, fish fillet like cod or halibut (I used tilapia) is layered on top of a bed of shallots, tomatoes, summer squash, and basil.  A little bit of white wine and olive oil combine with the fish and vegetables to make a nice, light sauce.  Baking time in a 400 F oven is 10-15 minutes.   This dish was mildly flavored, but healthy and easy to do on a weeknight.

Link to recipe here.

Subscribe to Bon Appetit here.

Restaurant Review: State Bird Provisions


State Bird Provisions is a new restaurant in San Francisco with a really unique concept where creative small plates are served dim sum style from a cart or on trays carried around by the waitstaff.  When the server comes around with the seafood cart, it it extremely tempting to pick four or five different plates, because everything looks so good, and the taste does not disappoint.  Most of the plates are enough for two people to have a few generous bites and are priced from $5-9. The passed plates change every night and even change during the course of the evening, with approximately 10-12 being served on a given night.  There are French, Korean, and Eastern European influences, which might seem quite disparate but none of the dishes seem out of place and instead provide a nice variety of choices.  Highlights included duck liver mousse with sweet almond cakes smoked duck breast with potatoes and pickled onions, clams with pork belly and kimchi stew, a broccoli and rye-stuffed pierogi with pickled bull’s blood micro greens and sour cream, whipped avocado with scallops and mussels, and yellowtail tartare with quinoa.

In addition there is a menu with “commandables” that can be ordered, including the fried quail with “provisions” – lemony onions and parmesan, a very fresh red trout with crispy rice battered skin, topped with mandarin oranges, macadamia nuts, and brown butter, and interesting savory pancakes, such as one served with guanciale, ramps, and candy cap powder.

The desserts were excellent.  A shot of peanut-infused milk with muscovado syrup was delicious.  A chocolate ice cream sandwich with hints of cardamom and cherries.  Strawberry granita served on top of tapioca with macerated strawberries and almonds.

State Bird Provisions was opened by a husband and wife team earlier this year on Fillmore Street in San Francisco, CA.  The quirky name references the state bird of California, the quail.  The storefront is dominated by an open kitchen.  There is a counter at the kitchen where one can stand and dine, picking plates as they are prepared in the kitchen, while tables are in the back.  Service was efficient but sometimes a bit terse.  I think they are pretty busy.  Overall, however, I really liked this place.  The concept is truly original making for a fun experience with really inventive and delicious food.  Highly recommended.

Link to restaurant website here.

Recipe Review: Soba Noodle Soup


This recipe for Soba Noodle Soup by Mark Bittman appeared recently in the New York Times.  Soba noodles are a Japanese noodle made from buckwheat flour that cooks quickly and yields a uniquely flavorful noodle.  The broth is quite easy to make with a few specialty ingredients: bonito flakes, mirin, and soy sauce, all of which can be found in a Japanese grocery store.  I cannot comment on the authenticity of this recipe, but the flavors are a light, well balanced mix of savory, briny, and sweet.  A beaten egg is cooked in the broth and becomes light and fluffy and absorbs the broth flavor.  The scallions are essential for flavor and texture contrast.

Link to recipe here.

Recipe Review: Tsukune (Grilled Chicken Meatballs with Tare)


Japanese yakatori shops are famed for their grilled meats served on skewers.  Bon Appetit May 2012 recently ran a feature on preparing tsukune, or chicken meatballs, at home.  Ground chicken, miso paste, sesame oil, and scallions are the simple mixture that is loaded onto bamboo skewers.

Tare is a basting sauce made with soy sauce, sugar, and in this case, chicken broth.  The chicken broth replaces the roast chicken drippings that are usually used to prepare tare, as in David Chang’s Momofuku tare recipe.  While it obviously does not provide the same depth of flavor, the chicken broth is a convenient substitute. After initially grilling the meats, the basting sauce is then applied and caramelizes nicely on the barbecued meat.

Link to recipe here.

Subscribe to Bon Appetit here.

Recipe Review: Fried Zucchini Flowers with Goat Cheese


The local farmer’s market had some beautiful zucchini flowers that I was able to use in a recipe from Mario Batali’s Molto Italiano cookbook, which has over 300 “simple” Italian recipes to cook at home.  The zucchini flowers are washed and the flower stamen is removed.  The flowers are then stuffed with a mixture of goat cheese, egg, and scallions.  The recipe calls for goat ricotta, but I used a soft goat cheese, and regular ricotta would probably also work, although I like the tanginess of the goat cheese.  The stuffed flowers are then lightly sauteed until golden.  A simple tomato vinaigrette and fresh basil finishes the dish.  Beautiful, bright, fresh, easy appetizer.

Link to recipe here.

Restaurant Review: ad hoc/addendum


ad hoc is chef Thomas Keller’s “casual” restaurant in Yountville, Napa Valley, CA.  Easier to get into and less expensive than Chef Keller’s other restaurants like The French Laundry or Bouchon, nevertheless the food at ad hoc is still prepared at a very high level.  Each night there is a single set menu that is served family style, often featuring vegetables from the French Laundry gardens.  The dinner starts with some delicious freshly baked bread and butter.  The menu on the night that I went started with a Salad of Baby Mixed Greens with red radishes, sweet onions, fatted calf salami, castelvetrano olives, sliced almonds, buttermilk dressing.  The main course was an Herb Crusted Lamb Sirloin, served with smashed fingerling potatoes, ramp leaf puree, pickled bulbs, sautéed asparagus with mix mushroom ragu.  The lamb was perfectly done and the crispy potatoes were great.  The highlight of the menu was the supplemental course of Crisp Pork Belly, haricots verts, yellow wax beans tomato marmalade.  Crisp.  Pork.  Belly.  This was followed by a cheese course of Pantaleo, a goat milk cheese from Sardinia, Italy, an interesting fennel & celery agradolce, and herbed walnuts.  Dessert was Ginger Pain Perdu, toasted coconut ice cream, caramelized bananas.  The brioche was toasted beautifully with a hint of ginger, complemented by a salty caramel sauce with the bananas and ice cream.  $52 for dinner, plus $14 for the supplemental course, and $34 for wine pairing.

addendum is a beautifully landscaped picnic area behind ad hoc where they serve box lunches on Thursday-Sunday, with a choice of either buttermilk fried chicken or barbecue.  The fried chicken was delicious – three pieces of brined chicken with a perfect crunchy crust.  This was served with a buttery rich, delicious piece of cornbread, swiss chard with bacon lardons and potato salad.  Dessert was purposefully underdone chocolate chip cookies.  addendum is a really nice place to have a weekend lunch in Napa Valley.  $16.50 for box lunch, $5 for dessert.

Link to the beautiful ad hoc cookbook here.

Video: Eat It, Don’t Tweet It


This video cuts a little too close to home :)

A few observations:

1.  I realize that the dish described in the opening scene is supposed to sound ridiculous, but it also sounds like something I would be really into.

2.  Nice homage to Pet Shop Boys

3.  1:47 the blog being made fun of in the video uses the same WordPress theme as my blog!

Restaurant Review: Commonwealth


Commonwealth has been on my must-try list for a while, and I finally had the pleasure of dining there recently.  Commonwealth is located in the Mission District of San Francisco and is an offshoot of Mission Street Food headed by chef Jason Fox.  It continues the Mission Street Food tradition of innovative food paired with a charity mission.  There are seats at the bar overlooking the open kitchen where I got to observe the chefs in action as they prepared a six course tasting menu that sounded very adventurous.  There were all sorts of fun culinary techniques on display: immersion circulators, microwave sponge cake, nitrous foams, liquid nitrogen.

The meal started off with complimentary house-made potato chips, which were mildly flavored with nori and served as a great vehicle for the malt vinegar foam.  Next was an amuse bouche of raw fluke, popcorn, and coconut, a really nice bite.  The actual tasting menu then started with caviar served on waffle potato chips with potatoes, creme fraiche, scrambled egg foam, and fines herbs.  The presentation was beautiful and a new way to enjoy a classic combination of flavors.

The next dish, Foie Gras with Brioche Soldiers was my favorite.  The foie gras is rolled in an oat crust, and the texture of the oats provides contrast to the creamy, fatty foie gras.  Each little bite of a combination of the foie gras, crisped, buttery brioche, and rhubarb jam was perfect.  In between bites there was pickled rhubarb and ginger candy and the beautiful Hearts of Fire leaves.

The next course was a shaved carrot and radish salad with ash-coated goat cheese, quinoa, and herbs.  Beautiful presentation again.  The menu is very thoughtfully planned, as this course was a nice change of pace from the rich dish before.

Sweetbreads, which are calf thymus, a single prawn, fava beans, and pasta in a smoked ham jus was next.  I was a little apprehensive at first about eating the sweetbreads, but they had a very mild flavor.  The ham jus (broth) was really tasty.  They have a very liberal substitution policy with the tasting menu, so we were able to taste several dishes from the a la carte menu in addition to the ones on the tasting menu, including a sturgeon with pumpernickel crust and brussel sprouts, and lamb’s tongue with artichokes and meyer lemon sauce.

Next was a palate cleanser of blood orange sherbet and chantilly creme.  The attention to detail was quite impressive.  For example, liquid nitrogen was used to chill the glass serving dish for the sherbet course.  This was followed by dessert, a peanut butter semifreddo in a chocolate ganache, caramel sauce, and frozen “popcorn.”  We also had another substitution, bruleed banana and frozen chicory mousse.  The mousse was dipped and rolled in liquid nitrogen, making a hard shell.  When the shell was cracked open, the soft mousse inside was revealed.  This was a great dessert, with the slight bitterness of the chicory contrasting with the caramelized bananas.  Finally, some delicious truffles with intense coffee flavor were sent over with the bill.

The tasting menu price is $65, $10 of which goes to charity, which made me feel a little less guilty about spending so much on one meal.  That being said, the tasting menu is a good value considering the exceptional quality of the six courses served, especially compared to other restaurants in the Bay Area.  New dishes appear every week, and the tasting menu turns over quarterly.  There is an optional wine pairing for $30, where a generous pour of wine accompanies each course.  The provenance and composition of each wine is explained as well as the reason the wine was chosen for the pairing.  Also available is an a la carte menu where similar sized portion plates are available for $12-16.  The decor is clean, modern, and inviting, and the service is very friendly, knowledgeable, patient, and accommodating of special requests.  Highly recommended.

Link to restaurant website here.

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